Happens a lot? Maybe a stand is on order. Or some better spokes. Or a better rim…. The tire may not be properly seated all the way around. Deflate, go around each side of the tire, pushing in with your thumbs, then reinflate. A week or two at full pressure should help. Thanks, Skip. Mark the center point of your frame where a rim brake would be, then the center point of your tire tread at various points around the road surface.
Then spin your tire and look endwise. If not trued, your tire will hop all around vs the frame mark. When your tire goes right, hit the brakes and then loosen right and tighten left at the top of the wheel. Reverse it for the other side. Repeat until trued. This next step is done by shifting your gear to the smallest cog and having your chain on it. The third step is to disengage the brakes. This depends on what type of brake your bike is using.
The fourth step is to loosen the wheel nuts to detach the derailleur. Simply stand behind the bike. Stabilize the frame with your left hand. Place your right thumb on the wheel nut.
Then, use your right fingers to pivot the derailleur all the way back. The rear wheel was completely removed from your bike. Some bikes come with a quick-release axle that you can pull up the lever, turn a few times, and remove in a jiffy. Your email address will not be published. Now what? Denis says:. July 6, at am. Bob Forgrave says:.
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August 20, at am. September 5, at am. September 7, at am. Fred says:. Every 3 or 4 radial corrections, check that lateral true is still acceptable and adjust as necessary.
Typically it is best to begin radial truing by addressing high spots. After reducing these, the low spots may not look so low. Spin the rim and locate the areas where gap between rim and indicator is the largest. Move the rim back and forth in this zone and isolate the spokes that should be adjusted to correct this deviation, just like you did for the high spots. This time, though, loosen the sets of spokes instead of tightening them. Move the rim back and forth through the low area to see if the radial deviation has gotten smaller.
It may take a few attempts to see progress. Continue the process of locating, isolating, and correcting, and again, check again for lateral errors after every few radial corrections.
Most significantly: the wheel will have a tire on it, and tires are not often made to such tight tolerances. As a general guideline, 1 millimeter or less of radial deviation is an acceptable measurement. Use this as a feeler gauge to help you visualize what 1mm looks like. If it gives you satisfaction to continue and make the wheel spin rounder and rounder, then continue with locating, isolating and correcting yet smaller and smaller deviations.
Destressing a wheel allows spokes that were wound up from turning the nipple to unwind. There are a few different ways to do this, but the safest is to simply install it in the bike and take it out for a ride. Expect to hear some pinging and popping for the first few pedal strokes. That is common and not a concern.
Not every wheel can be made sufficiently true. Sometimes damage to components of the wheel can prevent a wheel from being made reliably true:.
Rims may become damaged from impacts, such as hitting a rock, pothole or curb. Impacts to the side of the rim from falling down or crashing can also cause damage. It may be possible, in some cases, to repair the wheel with adjustments to spoke tension. Begin by checking relative tension in the damaged area. For example, if a wheel deviates in one section to the right, check left and right side spoke tension in that area.
Adjusting spoke tension on a wheel with a badly bent rim is unlikely to help, except possibly to get the rider home. In the above example, if a wheel deviates in one section to the right, but the spokes on the right side appear relatively loose and the spokes on the left side of the wheel appear tight, the rim metal is bent.
Normally, to correct this wobble, it is necessary to tighten left side spokes, but the check showed the left side is already tight. The option of loosening right side spokes is not very effective because the right side spokes at that section are already loose. This indicates the rim has been deformed beyond the point where spoke tension can repair it.
If the wheel is not repairable by adjusting spoke tension, the rim has been bent and will need replacement. If the old hub is in good condition, the rim can be replaced and new spokes and a new rim laced around the old hub. This process is best left to professional mechanics. The lubrication of nipple threads should be done routinely because corrosion and rust in these threads will make the wheel un-true-able. Even if the wheel appears not to need any truing, lubricate at the threads regularly, and then clean the rims of any excess lubrication.
Excess lubrication on the rim can affect the braking surfaces. It can happen that a spoke becomes bent or mangled. Typically, this is just a cosmetic flaw. When spokes are manufactured, they begin as stainless steel wire on huge spools.
A piece of wire is cut, and a head is stamped on one end. The other end is rolled in a die to form threads. The end with the head is then bent 90 degrees. This bend is the most severe bend the spoke is likely to see. So, if your spoke gets mangled during a crash, it is unlikely to be as severe a bend as the original factory bend. Keep riding the wheel, and one day the bent spoke may break, but it will most likely break at the weakest point, either the factory bend, or the threads.
A single broken spoke can simply be replaced and the wheel re-trued. However, if a wheel begins consistently breaking spokes, it should be rebuilt or replaced. Wheel Dishing Centering View Article. Trade Resources. What Tools do I need? Dish Centering Tension overal tightness. The spoke nipple, as seen from below the rim The spoke nipple, as seen from above the rim.
The tire can often obscure the indicators from direct view As the wheel turns, you will notice that in some places it is closer to the pad and in some places farther away. With a perfectly true wheel, the gap will be even all around.
Slowly rotate to the part of the rim where it is hitting the brake pad. Here my rim is bent to the left. To fix it, I tighten the spoke opposite the bend: the spoke circled in green. Tightening this spoke pulls the rim to the right. To tighten a spoke, place the spoke nipple into the notch in the wrench. Check that you have the right size of wrench. Tighten one full turn and pluck again.
The ding in your rim might be a couple of inches long. Start by evenly tightening the two spokes opposite the ding by a half turn of the spoke wrench. Then recheck the gap. Repeat until the ding is mostly straightened out. If you have a larger dinged area, you might end up tightening three or four spokes opposite to it. If the nipples are corroded, put a drop of oil on them so they are easier to turn.
After the wheel spins freely and the gap looks reasonably even all around, go around the rim squeezing each pair of spokes. This will even out any stresses in the rim. Recheck your truing after this. You can find this article with extra photos at: instructables. Dan develops bike accessories with MonkeyLectric.
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